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Accueil > Le moulin > le prix du pain...

le prix du pain...

vendredi 29 août 2014

{L’essentiel est sans cesse menacé par l’insignifiant…(René Char)} Il a fallu labourer, herser, puis semer et rouler… L’industrie pulvérise en moyenne 7 fois : désherbant, régulateurs de croissance, engrais. Elle a choisi la semence qui offre le meilleur rendement, la meilleure résistance aux maladies. Le cultivateur bio, ou qui raisonne, tout simplement, herse à nouveau. Il a opté pour la semence qui donnera le meilleur grain. Pas nécessairement le meilleur gain, puisque le rendement, souvent, est inversement proportionnel à la qualité. Entre deux averses, moissonner, trier, souffler, sécher, stocker… Le meunier a basculé le sac sur son dos, pour le verser dans la trémie. Les meules ont tourné, les godets élevé, le blutoir tamisé. La farine, enfin, est ensachée. L’industrie, entre les cylindres aux aspérités adéquates, a broyé à toute vitesse, sans respect pour le germe, et la farine échauffée a été « améliorée », c’est-à-dire additionnée de conservateurs, gluten, colorants, insecticides, fongicides, accélérateurs de fermentation, rétenteurs d’eau Le boulanger a chauffé son four, pétri la pâte, façonné les miches, cuit le pain… L’industrie a préféré trimballer une pâte approximative aux quatre coins de l’Europe, congeler, dégeler, cuire en plusieurs fois, recongeler au besoin… Et le consommateur, le voilà un peu désorienté face à ses choix. Ça ne coûte pas très cher de s’empoisonner, et d’enrichir au passage l’industrie médicale et pharmaceutique, pour des problèmes d’allergie, de transit, d’obésité… Ça coûte un peu plus cher de permettre au cultivateur honnête, au meunier honnête, au boulanger honnête de nouer les deux bouts. Qu’un seul des paramètres change, de la météo au cours mondial des céréales, du coût de l’énergie aux effets de modes ou de marketing (ah, l’épeautre…), et le prix du pain, nécessairement, va évoluer, sans que ni le cultivateur, ni le meunier, ni le boulanger, augmentent leur marge. Cette augmentation se mesure en centimes pour peser, au bout de l’année, le prix, par exemple, d’une consultation chez le médecin, d’un demi-plein d’essence, d’une recharge de téléphone portable, de cinq ou dix paquets de cigarettes, que sais-je, choses dont je peux me passer, et dont la privation, parfois, est bénéfique. Mais le pain je ne veux pas m’en passer. Je veux qu’il soit passé par la main du cultivateur consciencieux, du meunier précis, du boulanger fier de son travail. Je veux qu’il « tienne » éventuellement plusieurs jours, et tienne aussi dans mon estomac. Je le veux savoureux, consistant et sain. A l’heure qu’il est, j’ai encore le choix. Il y aura toujours du pseudo-pain, même pendant les guerres il y en avait. Ersatz, on le nommait, lors de la dernière. Ce n’est pas sûr qu’il y aura toujours du vrai pain. Parce qu’il est plus cher, pense-t-on, oubliant qu’il est le résultat d’un processus qui a demandé plus de travail, plus de temps, à plus de monde et qu’il est, à bien des égards, le meilleur médicament préventif, et un héritage à sauvegarder, pour mieux le partager… Vouloir l’un au prix de l’autre, c’est, à terme, rendre le choix impossible, et perdre ce qu’on juge essentiel. Libres propos de meuniers assis sur un sac